Day 3 - Finishing seat plunger and seat

Stand back, it's looking like a bike. Notice my springer up front. I've got to parkerize those springs.

Not much work done today as I have to go to my real job tonight. I painted the seat T with black epoxy paint. I used it on a linkert carb and it seems to be a very "authentic" looking paint. It's called VHT (Very high temp??) I also had to ream out the seat perch mounting hole for the seat. The pin wouldn't fit through it at all. It fits nicely now and seems to work well. I also mounted the front of the seat T to the frame without much incident except more paint flaking off at points of contact with the seat T. You can't really see it now that it's all installed. Here are some pics!

Messinger no 3 Saddle

Front mount with Alemite fitting, parkerized hardware

Detail of perch to seat connection showing pin and retaining spring 

Ass view…Did I miss a spot with the paint!?!?

Day 2 - Seat plunger

I was going to do the springer front end, but for some reason I grabbed the seat plunger and decided to fit test it.  I started off by pounding in the brass bushing. Prior to the installation of the bushing, I ran it over the outside of the seat perch and it cleared perfectly.  Of course, once it was installed, it must have compressed a bit because it was now impossible to pass the seat perch. I then bored out the bushing a bit, sanded it and it works fine. I'm a little bummed though because some of the paint chipped off right around the perimeter of the seat tube. I guess I will touch up the paint.

A little chipping around periphery

Not too bad looking, I was a bit rough

I then got to work putting the seat plunger assembly together. It seems like I won't have any issues, but I need a pin spanner wrench to tighten the collar at the base of the seat perch. I tried putting it on by hand, but it won't seat. I'll have to wait a week or so to get that tool in. It should just drop in...I might need to adjust the load setting to finalize. I will also need a zerk fitting on the right side of the seat down tube. How much grease can I pump in there?

Cadmium plated perch and plunger assembly

Build Day 1

So, this isn't really the first day that I've started on this project. It's actually been over 2 years since my dad and I bought this bike as a basket case from a man in Woodland. We were looking for a "project" bike that I could build for him.

Little did we know what we were getting ourselves into! What we thought would be a quick/fun/easy project, turned about to be none of those things...well, it has been fun. Now, over the years of researching Harley Davidson and the side valve years of 1930-1936 and scrutinizing the parts we had AND the parts we were wanting to have, we've finally come to a point where we can start reassembling and turning this pile of parts into an authentic antique motorcycle.

It's been a long road up until now and the exciting part is that I am not even half way there in finishing this project. I thought, however, that it might be fun to blog now about this stage of the build. Now because I'm at a stage where the bike can start to take form and hopefully we'll breathe new life into this 89 year old motorcycle.

Ok, enough with the introduction business. I'm not one for words, so I don't want that to become to apparent through my writings. I'll make these posts short and concise and hopefully entertaining to those who are interested in what I am doing or at least in antique motorcycle restorations.

Day 1
Just got back all of the painted parts back from my dad's shop in Las Vegas. Basically, all painted parts including the frame, tins, handlebars, battery box, headlight, toolbox, etc. came back in various shades of antique paint curtesy of John Pierce at Colorwrite. Although most of it won't be seen today, the paint scheme is Police blue as primary and Creme as secondary. We went with a paint scheme that might have been done somewhere in between 1932 and 1933. It's a two-tone scheme with the 1932 only tank scroll and fender stripes seen in 1933 models. We decided to stick with the 1932 practice of painting the frame in the primary color (Police Blue) as opposed to black which I believe started in 1933.

Today I started out simple by merely blocking the frame. The "How to Restore Your Harley Davidson" book recommended installing the rear stand and then blocking the front with stacked 4x4's. I didn't think this simple task would take me so long, but because I'm basically an idiot when it comes to restoring antique motorcycles, I'm also not entirely surprised. My first hurdle came when I tried to install the rear stand. I tried running the hardware through the mounting holes and they didn't fit. I set out to reaming the bushings a bit larger. Ok, no big deal, they'll fit inside without a problem! Next, the repop stand I bought needed a little "coercing" to fit onto my frame. I basically had to bend it open to clear the ends of the frame. My last problem came when I had to push the springs onto the posts located on the rear stand. They wouldn't fit. I ended up sanding a lot of the paint off the end of the posts to get the springs to slide over. I also used a little grease inside  and on the bushings to get everything to slide on. It was very tight, but everything eventually slid in. I lost only a little bit of paint in the process. You can't tell though now that everything is installed.

Rear stand installed and up on 8" blocks up front

I then quickly put in the foot board support rods and threw a stack of 4x4's under the front support rod to lift the front end up. I was concerned however because the front support rod leans.

Right side higher than left

Although, when I checked if everything was level, it pretty much was. Wood blocks are level. The rear of the bike is level, but front is a bit skewed. What's bent? Frame/rear stand/ front support rod casting?? Any advice on the matter would be appreciated!

Rear mostly level...don't mind the cobwebs!

Whole setup from rear

Closeup of hardware and, apparently, dust. Details how dark the blue is.

Well, I think the next thing I will be tackling is the springer front end. It's already assembled with the springs all cadmium plated and new hardware. See ya'll then!!